Hello travel enthusiast,
Before sharing details about our July 2025 vacation, I wanted to let you know that my wife and I are planning our first luxury train adventure through South Africa and neighboring countries in 2026. If anyone has traveled on the Rovos Rail, I’d love to hear about your experience!
July 2025 marked the beginning of an adventure unlike any other. Together, my wife and I set out to trace a path across seven countries, each one unfolding like a chapter in a living story—Romania’s castles, Bulgaria’s charm, Turkey’s vibrant crossroads, Croatia’s dazzling coast, Bosnia-Herzegovina’s resilience, Montenegro’s rugged beauty, and Poland’s timeless spirit. Every border we crossed offered a new perspective, and every day carried the thrill of discovery.
Our journey began with the kind of logistical maze that makes every great adventure feel even more rewarding—several connecting flights carrying us halfway across the globe. United Airlines first swept us to Dulles, where the true voyage took flight. From there, we boarded Austrian Airlines for the very first time, settling into their business class cabin. It wasn’t the most extravagant we’ve experienced, but there’s something undeniably luxurious about stretching out in a private bed above the clouds. On the return, Lufthansa’s business class offered a nearly identical experience—comfortable and refined—but by then, the real luxury wasn’t in the seat or service. It was in the stories, the laughter, and the memories we carried home.
Because this trip was long and brimming with experiences, I’ll focus on the highlights—and the unique twists we added along the way. Normally, our travels keep us loyal to JW Marriott hotels, but this time we decided to break from tradition and try something different. We sought out properties with character and history, and the choice did not disappoint. One night we found ourselves sleeping in a former palace, another wandering the grand halls of a converted bank, each stay adding its own layer to the story. And in Dubrovnik, Croatia, we embraced an entirely new kind of luxury at the Hotel Bellevue, part of the Adriatic Luxury Hotels collection. Perched dramatically on the cliffs with sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea, it was a bold departure from our usual routine—and one that left us with unforgettable memories.
Our tours unfolded at a pace that felt just right—never rushed, never crowded. Each one was private, led by English-speaking guides who seemed just as invested in our journey as we were. At times, we even had both a driver and a guide working together, giving us the freedom to fully immerse ourselves in each destination without a single thought to logistics. Among the many unforgettable experiences, one stands apart: the journey from Warsaw to a concentration camp. It was a visit both humbling and profoundly moving, arranged with such care that we could simply focus on the weight of the history before us. Our driver brought us there and back with quiet professionalism, while our guide on-site wove stories and context into the silence of the place—leaving us with impressions that will remain for a lifetime.
Romania Unveiled: Castles, Culture, and Carpathian Dreams
Romania greeted us with the rolling hills and storybook charm of Transylvania, where medieval towns nestle against the backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains. In Brașov, we wandered cobblestone streets lined with colorful facades, a town that felt alive with history at every corner. From there, we stepped into the fairy-tale grandeur of Peleș Castle, with its ornate halls and alpine setting, and the more intimate, yet equally captivating, Pelișor Castle.
No journey through Romania would be complete without castles, and we couldn’t resist visiting two of its most famous. Just over an hour apart, Peleș dazzled us with elegance, while Bran Castle—better known to the world as Dracula’s Castle—captured our imagination with its imposing silhouette and legends that echo through its stone walls. Hiking the trails of the Carpathians rounded out our adventure, rewarding us with sweeping views and the thrill of discovery at every turn.
Food, for me, is inseparable from the joy of travel, and on this journey, I felt like I’d stumbled into paradise. With a natural preference for seafood and a tendency to avoid meat—saved for maybe once a year—I found endless delights, from coastal specialties pulled straight from the sea to inventive vegetarian dishes that celebrated local flavors in every country we visited. And though I’ve never considered myself a beer drinker, the spirit of discovery nudged me to raise a glass in each nation along the way. To my surprise, every pint told its own story—and every sip was worth it.
Exploring Transylvania: Mountains, Medieval Streets, and Magic
Tucked in the heart of Romania, Transylvania is a place where nature and history entwine so seamlessly that it feels as though time itself has paused. Ringed by the Carpathian Mountains, the landscape shifts like a painting—from rolling green hills that seem to stretch forever, to jagged alpine peaks that pierce the sky. In traditional villages, life moves at a gentler pace: horse-drawn carts still clatter along dirt roads, and the scent of wood smoke curls from chimneys, carrying with it echoes of centuries past.
The region’s medieval towns—Sibiu, Sighișoara, and Brașov—are nothing short of enchanting. Cobblestone streets wind past pastel-colored houses, market squares hum with energy, and spires and fortified walls stand as guardians of stories etched across hundreds of years. Within these towns, artisans keep ancient crafts alive, weaving intricate patterns, carving wood with practiced hands, while markets tempt visitors with cheeses, honey, and cured meats, each stall a window into Transylvania’s enduring traditions.
For those drawn to the outdoors, Transylvania is a natural paradise. Trails meander through national parks like Piatra Craiului and Apuseni, leading to cascading waterfalls, hidden limestone caves, and glimpses of rare wildlife. Rural guesthouses offer not just a place to rest, but a chance to be welcomed like family—with steaming bowls of stew, golden polenta, and a glass of homemade plum brandy poured with pride.
Visiting Transylvania is to step into a world where the past still breathes, where the mountains watch silently over the valleys, and where magic lingers in both the landscapes and the people who call it home.
Bran Castle: Where Romanian History Meets Gothic Legend
Rising like a dark silhouette against the Carpathian sky, Bran Castle commands its rocky hilltop in the heart of Transylvania. To the world, it is “Dracula’s Castle,” a place where myth, marketing, and imagination have entwined for more than a century. Yet its true story begins not with vampires, but with stone and strategy—built in the 14th century to guard the mountain pass between Transylvania and Wallachia, a frontier of trade and war.
Approaching the fortress, travelers wind up a steep path where history and folklore collide in the open-air market below. Stalls brim with hand-stitched blouses, carved wooden keepsakes, and the inevitable vampire trinkets, while the smell of warm pastries drifts through the pine-scented air. The atmosphere feels almost festive—until your gaze lifts to the castle’s jagged outline, its towers leaning into the sky with the weight of centuries.
Inside, Bran Castle becomes a labyrinth. Narrow corridors twist unexpectedly, staircases vanish into shadows, and rooms shift from intimate to imposing. In one chamber, a vaulted dining hall glitters with heavy chandeliers; in another, medieval weapons line the walls—silent reminders of past battles. Tucked among these relics is the refined touch of Queen Marie of Romania, who transformed the castle into a royal residence in the early 20th century, filling it with graceful furniture and personal treasures. Every turn feels like stepping through layers of time.
Guides whisper tales that hover between fact and folklore. They speak of Vlad the Impaler, the ruthless 15th-century ruler whose cruelty echoes faintly in Stoker’s fictional Count. They recount village legends of wandering spirits, garlic charms, and souls that refuse to rest. And as candlelight flickers across thick stone walls, even the most skeptical visitor feels the edge of unease—a reminder that legends endure not because they are real, but because they feel true.
From the upper terraces, the landscape unfolds in sweeping drama: rolling forests, scattered villages, and peaks that vanish into mist. In autumn, the hills ignite with fiery reds and golds; in winter, snow softens the castle’s battlements until it looks like a storybook fortress, equal parts fairy tale and nightmare.
Bran Castle is more than a monument—it is a threshold between worlds. Travelers often pair their visit with the medieval streets of Brașov, Transylvania’s fortified churches, and winding mountain roads that feel untouched by time. Yet it is here, within these walls, that history and legend blur most vividly. You leave with the sense that perhaps the castle itself is the storyteller, weaving together fact, folklore, and imagination into a Gothic tale that refuses to die.
Romania’s Crown Treasure: Exploring Peleș Castle
In the forested embrace of the Bucegi Mountains, where mist curls through pine trees and cobbled paths lead upward, Peleș Castle emerges like something conjured from a dream. Built in the late 19th century for King Carol I, this summer residence was never meant to be ordinary—it was to be a statement of taste, progress, and royal vision. With its Neo-Renaissance elegance, Gothic flourishes, and Germanic influences, Peleș is less a fortress than a fairy tale written in stone.
The approach alone feels cinematic. As the winding path opens, the first glimpse of slender spires and ornate facades catches the eye, each detail a declaration of artistry. Carved wood, sculpted stone, and painted frescoes wrap the castle in an air of theatrical grandeur, as if every balcony and turret were designed to astonish.
Step inside, and Peleș becomes a journey through worlds. The Hall of Honor dazzles with its stained-glass ceiling that shifts color with the sunlight. The library, lined with dark paneling, conceals a secret door—a whisper of intrigue hidden among the shelves. In the Music Room, echoes of past concerts still linger in the carved instruments and gilded walls, reminding visitors that this was not just a palace but a stage for culture.
King Carol’s love of modernity is also etched into the castle itself. Peleș was one of the first in Europe to embrace electricity, central heating, even a retractable glass roof. It is as much a palace of innovation as of beauty. Within its walls, Venetian mirrors sparkle, Murano glass chandeliers glimmer, and Swiss woodcarvings tell stories of their own. Every detail is a collaboration of Europe’s finest artisans, gathered in one Romanian masterpiece.
Outside, manicured terraces give way to rolling gardens and sweeping mountain views. Each season transforms the setting: spring paints the grounds in bursts of color, summer fills the air with pine and wildflowers, autumn drapes the castle in gold and crimson, and winter silences everything under a blanket of snow, turning Peleș into a true storybook palace.
Just a short walk away lies Pelișor Castle, smaller in scale but equally rich in spirit. Built in 1902 for King Ferdinand I and Queen Marie, Pelișor was not meant to impress dignitaries—it was meant to be a home. That intimacy is felt in every room.
Queen Marie, a gifted artist and visionary, shaped much of its design herself. Art Nouveau curves soften the spaces, sunlight streams through stained glass in delicate colors, and nature-inspired motifs weave through the walls. The Golden Room, glowing with gilded leaves and patterns of mystic beauty, is perhaps the most enchanting space of all—a chamber that feels both regal and dreamlike.
Walking through Pelișor feels less like touring a palace and more like leafing through the pages of a private diary. It is tender, personal, and alive with the queen’s spirit. Together with Peleș, it completes a portrait of Romania’s royal legacy—not only its grandeur, but also its intimacy and heart.
To wander these castles is to step into a living story, where history, artistry, and imagination are written into every stone and shadow. In the Carpathians, Romania’s crown treasures still gleam, inviting travelers to lose themselves in their timeless spell.
Bulgaria From Tsarevets Fortress to Old Town: Discovering Veliko Tarnovo
Veliko Tarnovo rises in terraces above the winding Yantra River, a city of steep cobbled streets, red-tiled rooftops, and echoes of Bulgaria’s medieval glory. At its heart, perched high on a rocky hill, stands Tsarevets Fortress—a stronghold that once guarded kings, endured sieges, and still watches over the town with quiet defiance.
Long before Bulgaria existed as a nation, Tsarevets Hill was already alive with human history. Thracians, Romans, and Byzantines left their marks on their slopes. But it was in 1185, when brothers Asen and Peter led a rebellion against Byzantine rule, that Veliko Tarnovo became the capital of the newly founded Second Bulgarian Empire. For more than two centuries, Tsarevets was not just a fortress—it was the beating heart of a medieval kingdom. Within its walls rose a royal palace, patriarchal cathedral, and narrow streets crowded with churches, homes, and workshops. Here, tsars ruled, priests blessed, and artisans worked, all protected by formidable stone walls and defensive towers.
That golden age ended in 1393, when the Ottomans laid siege to the hill. After months of resistance, the fortress fell. Its palaces burned, its churches crumbled, and Bulgaria entered nearly five centuries of foreign rule. Yet even in ruin, Tsarevets remained a symbol of resilience, etched into the country’s memory as the site of its medieval triumphs and tragedies.
Walking through Tsarevets today is like tracing those layers of history with your own footsteps. Visitors cross a reconstructed drawbridge and pass beneath the fortress gates, where soldiers once stood guard. Paths wind past remnants of homes and chapels, while the stone outlines of administrative halls hint at the power that once radiated from these walls.
At the summit stands the Patriarchal Cathedral of the Ascension, rebuilt in the 20th century on its original foundation. Its frescoes are strikingly modern, a bold retelling of Bulgaria’s past painted in vivid, unconventional style. Step onto the terrace, and the view sweeps across Veliko Tarnovo’s old town, the Yantra curling like a ribbon below, and forested hills stretching toward the horizon.
Nearby rises Baldwin’s Tower, a reconstructed watchtower named for the Latin Emperor Baldwin I, who legend says died as a prisoner here under Tsar Kaloyan. Not far away lies Execution Rock, a sheer cliff where traitors were cast into the void—a grim reminder of the fortress’s darker chapters.
Yet Tsarevets is not only a relic of the past. At night, its walls blaze to life during the Sound and Light Show, a spectacle of music, narration, and colored lights that tell the fortress’s story against the backdrop of stone and sky. In that moment, the ruins are no longer silent, they speak, just as they have been for centuries.
Veliko Tarnovo itself deepens the experience. Wander through its old town streets, where traditional houses cling to the hillsides and artisan workshops sell woodcarvings, icons, and handwoven fabrics. Stop at a market or café, and you’ll taste the living culture that has always sustained this historic city.
A visit to Tsarevets is not just about seeing a fortress—it’s about stepping into a living chronicle of Bulgaria’s past. Here, triumph and tragedy, myth and memory, are written into every stone, reminding travelers that history is never only behind us, but also beneath our feet.
Istanbul, Turkey: A City of Timeless Wonders
Few cities in the world can claim the magic of Istanbul, a place where continents meet and centuries collide. Standing at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, the city has served as capital to both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, each leaving behind monuments that still shape its skyline. But Istanbul is more than its history, it is the call to prayer echoing across rooftops, the spice-scented air of its bazaars, and the endless rhythm of life that pulses through its streets.
The journey often begins at Hagia Sophia, the crown jewel of Istanbul’s layered past. When Emperor Justinian unveiled it in 537, its soaring dome seemed to defy the heavens themselves, and for nearly a thousand years it remained the largest church in Christendom. Later transformed into an imperial mosque, then a museum, and once again a mosque, Hagia Sophia embodies Istanbul itself—a meeting of worlds, of faiths, of time. Beneath its golden mosaics and sweeping arches, visitors stand in awe of a structure that has never lost its power to inspire.
Across the square rises the Blue Mosque, a masterpiece of Ottoman grace. Built in the early 17th century, its six slender minarets and cascading domes dominate the skyline, but it is inside where the name comes alive. Thousands of hand-painted Iznik tiles—brilliant shades of blue—cover its walls, glowing in the filtered light that streams through stained-glass windows. Even amid the footsteps of travelers, the vast prayer hall carries a deep tranquility, a reminder that this is not only a monument but also a living sanctuary.
Slip underground, and Istanbul reveals another face. The Basilica Cistern, built in the 6th century, is a world apart: a forest of marble columns rising from dark waters, their reflections dancing under dim lights. The carved Medusa heads tucked in its corners add an air of mystery, as if the city’s myths still linger in its depths.
For a broader view, climb the Galata Tower, a medieval watchtower that once guarded the city and now offers sweeping panoramas of domes, bridges, and the silver ribbon of the Bosphorus. From this height, Istanbul’s sprawl comes alive: ferries gliding between continents, minarets piercing the sky, and neighborhoods stitched together by history and modern life.
Back on the ground, the heart of Istanbul beats loudest in the Grand Bazaar. A labyrinth of more than 4,000 shops overwhelms the senses with color and sound: merchants calling out, carpets spilling across stalls, the gleam of gold jewelry, the scent of coffee and spices thick in the air. To wander here is to step into centuries of trade and tradition, where bargaining is as much ritual as transaction.
And when the bustle quiets, the Bosphorus awaits. A ferry ride along its waters is Istanbul at its most serene. Palaces shimmer on the shoreline, fishermen cast their lines, and the city seems to exhale as the sun sinks behind its hills. Between sips of strong Turkish tea, travelers watch as the light softens over minarets and mansions alike, Europe on one side, Asia on the other.
Istanbul is not a city you see all at once. It reveals itself layer by layer—through stone and story, through food and faith, through voices carried on the sea breeze. From the grandeur of Hagia Sophia to the hidden corners of its markets, it leaves you with the feeling that you’ve only begun to know it. And perhaps that is its greatest wonder: in Istanbul, there is always another story waiting just around the corner.
Dubrovnik: The Pearl of the Adriatic Awaits
Rising from the turquoise waters of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik has long been called the Pearl of the Adriatic—and it only takes a single glance to understand why. Encircled by massive medieval walls and crowned with red-tiled rooftops, the city glimmers with a timeless beauty that feels both cinematic and impossibly real.
The heart of Dubrovnik is its Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where every stone seems to whisper history. Walking the one-mile circuit of the city walls is a journey through centuries: on one side, the endless blue of the Adriatic stretching to the horizon; on the other, a sea of terracotta roofs broken only by church towers and domes. Fortresses like Fort Lovrijenac, perched dramatically on a rocky cliff, complete the picture of a city that has always been both beautiful and fiercely defended.
Inside the walls, narrow marble-paved streets lead to treasures at every turn. The elegant Rector’s Palace, once the seat of government, stands as a reminder of Dubrovnik’s days as a powerful maritime republic. The Franciscan Monastery houses one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, still in operation today. And the ornate Church of St. Blaise, glowing in Baroque splendor, honors the city’s beloved patron saint. At the center of it all runs the Stradun, a grand promenade where locals and travelers alike gather in the glow of open-air cafés, surrounded by centuries of architecture.
For modern travelers, Dubrovnik offers a touch of fantasy as well—fans of Game of Thrones will recognize these streets and walls as the backdrop for King’s Landing. Guided tours weave fact and fiction together, revealing the real stories behind the filming spots while connecting them to the city’s own dramatic past.
Beyond the Old Town, adventure beckons. A cable car ride up Mount Srđ rewards with sweeping panoramas of the city and the islands scattered across the Adriatic. Just offshore, Lokrum Island offers a quiet escape with lush gardens, shaded walking trails, and peacocks strutting freely among the ruins of a Benedictine monastery.
Our journey even stretched beyond Croatia’s borders. With our guide, we crossed into neighboring Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro, exploring mountain valleys, medieval towns, and cultures that share deep ties with Dubrovnik’s history.
But it is the city itself that lingers longest in memory. Dubrovnik is a place where past and present embrace: where fortress walls glow golden in the setting sun, where church bells mingle with the murmur of the sea, and where every winding alley seems to promise a new discovery. It is more than a destination, it is an experience, one that leaves travelers longing to return to the Adriatic’s most dazzling jewel.
Journey Through Bosnia-Herzegovina: A Land of Stories and Scenery
Leaving Dubrovnik behind at dawn, the road winds through rugged hills toward the border of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Within just a few hours, the Adriatic coast gives way to a landscape of mountains, rivers, and villages shaped by centuries of shifting empires. It feels like crossing not just into another country, but into another world of stories, traditions, and breathtaking scenery.
The day’s highlight is Mostar, a town where East and West meet in striking harmony. Its centerpiece, the 16th-century Stari Most (Old Bridge), rises gracefully over the emerald waters of the Neretva River. Crowds gather to watch as daring local divers plunge into the rushing current below—a tradition as old as the bridge itself, and a spectacle that captures both courage and continuity.
Beyond the bridge, Mostar’s old town is a tapestry of Ottoman influence and Balkan charm. Narrow cobblestone lanes lead past stone houses and colorful market stalls overflowing with copperware, handwoven rugs, and intricate jewelry. The air carries the scent of grilled ćevapi and warm bread, while cafés spill onto the riverside, offering strong Bosnian coffee served with ritual and care. From every angle, the town is framed by dramatic mountains, their slopes reflecting in the Neretva’s green waters.
On the return journey, there is time to pause at Počitelj, a picturesque hillside village where stone towers and mosques rise above orchards and gardens, whispering of medieval times. Or perhaps at the Kravica Waterfalls, where cascades tumble into a turquoise pool surrounded by lush greenery, a natural sanctuary perfect for a swim or simply for soaking in the beauty.
A day trip into Bosnia-Herzegovina is far more than a change of scenery. It is a passage through layers of history, where Ottoman arches meet Austro-Hungarian facades, and where traditions remain deeply alive in food, craft, and ritual. It is also a reminder that, so close to the Croatian coast, lies a land with its own rhythm, its own resilience, and its own stories waiting to be discovered.
Exploring Montenegro: Hidden Gems of the Balkans
Just beyond Dubrovnik’s borders lies Montenegro, a small country with outsized beauty. Within a short drive, the coastline of Croatia gives way to rugged mountains, glittering seas, and towns that seem untouched by time. A day trip here feels like opening a storybook, where each stop reveals another chapter of history and scenery.
The first breathtaking glimpse comes at the Bay of Kotor. Encircled by towering cliffs and calm, sapphire waters, the bay has the quiet grandeur of a fjord, though it is entirely its own. Villages with terracotta rooftops dot the shoreline, their reflections shimmering in the still surface, as though the past and present blur in its waters.
In the town of Perast, baroque facades line a peaceful promenade, and boats bob gently at the pier. From here, a short ride across the bay brings you to Our Lady of the Rocks, a tiny man-made islet crowned by a chapel. Stepping inside, you’ll find walls covered in votive paintings and legends that speak of seafarers, faith, and the power of human devotion.
The journey continues to Kotor, a medieval walled city where stone streets weave through a labyrinth of hidden squares, weathered churches, and lively cafés. Life spills out onto cobblestones as locals linger over coffee and visitors trace the history etched into the city’s walls. For those who climb the steep path to the fortress above, the reward is unforgettable: a sweeping panorama of the bay, the town below like a jewel cradled by mountains and sea.
If time allows, the adventure stretches further to Budva, where sunlit beaches meet a vibrant old town. Here, medieval walls overlook the Adriatic, and the atmosphere shifts from historic to playful—a blend of relaxation and energy that captures another side of Montenegro’s charm.
Though compact in size, Montenegro is a land of contrasts: tranquil villages and lively coastal towns, rugged peaks and calm seas, legends carved in stone and moments lived on sunlit terraces. A day spent here is not just an excursion, it’s a journey into the hidden heart of the Balkans, where beauty feels both familiar and entirely new.
Exploring Poland: From Medieval Towns to Modern Cities
The road from Warsaw to Lublin winds through a patchwork of fields, forests, and small villages, a tranquil landscape that hides a darker chapter of history. After about three hours, the quiet countryside gives way to a place that feels suspended in time: Majdanek, one of the most hauntingly preserved concentration camps of World War II.
Unlike other sites that were destroyed in retreat, Majdanek remains largely intact. Its barracks, watchtowers, and barbed wire stand as stark witnesses to the atrocities committed here. Stepping through the entrance, visitors are confronted with a vast stone monument, its heavy arches framing the path ahead—a threshold into memory and grief.
The camp itself is chilling in its completeness. Wooden barracks line the grounds, many still containing bunks where prisoners once lay. The gas chambers and crematoria remain as they were, their silence carrying more weight than words ever could. At the far end rises the mausoleum, where the ashes of thousands of victim’s rest beneath a dome, a solemn reminder of lives extinguished.
Inside the museum, exhibits give faces and voices to those who suffered here. Shoes worn thinly from endless marches, striped uniforms, letters, and photographs—fragments of everyday lives interrupted by cruelty. Each artifact is a testimony, transforming statistics into human stories.
Walking through Majdanek is not a passive visit; it is an encounter. The wind whistles across open fields, footsteps echo on gravel paths, and with every step comes the heavy realization of the scale of what happened here.
The return drive to Warsaw feels quieter, the scenery unchanged yet carrying new meaning. A visit to Majdanek is emotionally demanding, but it is also profoundly necessary. It is a reminder not only of the past but of the responsibility to remember that such darkness is never repeated.
Closing Reflection
As our journey through Eastern Europe and the Balkans came to an end, it felt less like a series of destinations and more like a story we had lived—one written across medieval streets, mountain passes, river valleys, and sunlit coastlines.
What began as a whirlwind of flights and border crossings became something deeper: a tapestry of cultures and histories, of flavors we can still taste and moments we can still feel. From conversations with strangers to sunsets that stopped us in our tracks, every thread wove itself into a memory that will stay with us long after the suitcases are unpacked.
In the end, it wasn’t about how many places we saw but how each place changed us, reminding us why we travel at all: to discover, to connect, and to return home carrying more stories than we ever imagined.
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